Acrylic paint advice?

[Deleted]

This is a two part question, or maybe more accurately a qualified question. First, do any of you guys apply acrylics to small parts with a brush? Then, if so, do you have any specific advice on technique?

For the foreseeable future, I'll be using different sized brushes to apply acrylics to any part(s) I don't rattle can spray with lacquer. I haven't bought an airbrush or compressor and don't intend to any time soon.

So I'd really like to hear from anybody that has specific tips on how to obtain the best results when using a brush to apply acrylics. I'm painting the 340 for my Duster build and I'm just not real pleased with my results. I think I should be able to do a little better.

[68383]

I’d say brush and paint quality are important.

I get very smooth results from Freak Flex acrylic paint. I also use plenty of that cheap Michael’s acrylic too though.

[Deleted]

The bulk of my acrylics are Tamiya with some Model Master. I've just bought some of the stuff from Walmart too, but haven't used it yet.

My brushes are all what I would call mid to upper quality from either Hobby Lobby or from Hobbylinc. I have some cheaper brushes that are for dry brushing washes on with.

A couple of questions for you. Do you prime your small parts that you're going to brush acrylic on? How many coats of the acrylic do you have to apply?

[DusterEd]

I apply one coat let it dry and give it another coat. This is using model master paint. But 99% of the paint I use is enamel. It takes longer to dry but is much more durable. I never was a fan of water based paint. But I do use it for small parts.

[Deleted]

Well, I've kind of committed to using acrylic now. I've got an awful lot of it bought. When I was a kid all I used was enamel. I remember always ending up with kind of globs in recesses, nooks, and crannies. I was hoping the acrylic wouldn't do that. It's the way the paint pools and pulls together and I don't know how to prevent that.

The real problem I'm having right now is that the paint isn't adhering to ridges or high spots really well. So, in the case of this 340, I've now got two coats on and have pretty good coverage on flat surfaces, not quite enough on all the ridges and high spots, but in small nooks and crannies, I've got the same problem I always had with enamel - a little too much.

Now, I will say this motor is molded in a dark purple. I'm sure that contributes to the problem of not quite enough paint on high spots. I can't let that prevent me from getting decent painting done because there will be dark molded plastic parts in my future.

Right now I'm trying to decide if I want to just continue on and keep the hood down forever, or if I want to strip this paint and see if I can figure out what my trouble is. By the way, this problem is a major contributing factor as to why I stuffed my first two builds back in the boxes and buried them in the back of the closet. But I've got to find a way to get past this. I can't keep building cars and hiding them.

[68383]

Maybe try lighter, multiple coats?

[BUCKY]

I would shoot it with a good primer first. The primer holds on to the plastic, and then the paint will hold on to the primer. As mentioned, use a lighter, thinner coat of paint. When it dries, add another coat. Keep doing that until you get the coverage you want. Less pooling, and less brush strokes that way.

[Deleted]

So, you guys think I'm loading the brush too heavy? I can thin it down which will result in having to put on 3 or 4 coats. I can try that.

Before I strip and start over I'll try that on the rocker arm covers and intake manifold. I'll report back after I give that a shot.

[68383]

I agree on priming the parts first.

This figure is all acrylic with brushes. The base was done with spray paint mostly, and weathered. The pizza is acrylic brushed paint.

[BUCKY]

Delightfully gruesome!

[Deleted]

OK, Dave. If that's all, or mostly, acrylic, I'm doing something really wrong. I had to stop tinkering for the day (or night) because my headache kicked in. When I go back at it I'm going to shoot several small parts with primer, then try again.

I'm definitely doing something wrong and I have to get this figured out before I go any further. I may end up using this kit as a big learning experiment. I need to get the type of finish you have on that project down pat. Maybe I can't get it as good as you, but I danged sure have to get a lot better.

Thanks, and thanks to you other guys. I appreciate you all helping me work through this. I'm gonna get this, Damn it. Not trying to be perfect. Just trying to be better.

[BUCKY]

One thing you can do for practice is get a bunch of white plastic spoons, shoot them with the same primer as you would a model kit, and start painting those spoons with the different products you have on hand. You'll get a feel for what you can expect out of each different paint, and brush that you use. It sure beats wearing yourself out painting and stripping kit parts. I sometimes test different paints, or colors on left over sprue from the same kit, to see how that particular plastic will react.

[Deleted]

I did the spoon thing, Keith. The problem with that is that the spoon is nice and smooth and flat. Painting spoons doesn't really compare to painting the small parts with ridges, sharp edges, crevices, etc. When I get to feeling a little better I'm going to try priming a few parts that haven't been touched yet, then I'll try brushing on lighter coats of acrylic.

I have the engine halves, heads, and front cover glued up and that's what I've tried painting so far. When I finally get this figured out I'll just strip that assembly and repaint it. I'm going to prime the rocker arm covers, intake, and air cleaner and the try painting them.

Assuming I somehow get this ironed out and get a decent paint job on the engine, then I'll move on. Otherwise, I'm gonna have about 250 kits to list for sale! LOL! I don't care if this kit ends up a complete mess that I throw away so long as when I'm done with it I've managed to teach myself the right way to do this painting. It's the same, exact problem I had as a kid using enamel. It has to be my technique and I've got to learn to do it right. I've got to unlearn what I'm doing now and then learn the right way.

You guys just don't abandon me yet. LOL!

[68383]

The paint used was Freak Flex. It’s not cheap stuff, and it goes on smoothly. And all parts we’re primed first on this resin kit.

Not loads of angles on the figure, so that’s a bit different than heads on a car.

Thin coats are my recommendation.

[Deleted]

Now, this ain't good. I just got my third email from guys I correspond with about modeling advice. I still have a couple to contact, but what ain't good is that all three guys I've heard from on this acrylic paint problem all say to ditch the acrylic and go with straight enamel. All three say a couple of thin coats of enamel are all that is required. Two of the guys have said no priming is needed if you apply two, thin coats of enamel. I'm waiting to hear from the third guy to see if he users any primer.

So, what have I done? Have I screwed up by making the decision to use acrylic? Do I need to start selling off all these bottles of acrylics? Don't hesitate to tell me if that's the case. I'd rather start buying enamel and selling my acrylics now if I'm going to get better results with enamel. If I can get as good, or better results with acrylic once I get it figured out, that's OK too.